potterton performa 24 boiler?

Question

i have a potterton performa 24 & it seems to have no pilot light this is suposed to be auto also,the led which is there to inform me of the fault is not on.ther is power to the boiler & i have cheched the fuse within the unit.

Answer 1

get acorgi registered plumber out

Answer 2

You haven't mentioned whether you actually have a problem with the boiler, if it's just that you can't see a pilot light then there's no problem because the Potterton Performa 24 does NOT have a permanent pilot light. It is a fanned flued combination boiler, when there is demand for heat (either central heating or hot water) the fan runs, a pressure switch sends a signal back to the PCB which in turn starts the ignition and opens the gas valve, the spark igniter is also a flame sensor and sends a signal back to the PCB to tell it the burner is on, if it doesn't sense a flame the sequence starts all over again.

If you have hot water but no central heating, make sure the programmer (timeclock) is switched to the demand mode (i.e. your central heating is switched on) and that your room stat (if fitted) is turned up and that the dial on the front of the boiler points to the symbol that shows a tap and a radiator.

If you have central heating but no hot water, the diverter valve is faulty.

If you have neither, make sure the isolation switch is switched on and that the 'power on' LED is lit, and that the dial on the front of the boiler points to either the tap or the tap and radiator. If you still get nothing, go outside to where the flue is and listen for the sound of the fan blowing, if you can't hear it there is a problem with either the fan (£150), the PCB (£100), the pressure switch (£25ish) or the tube to the pressure switch (£10), if this is the case please please please only let a CORGI registered gas engineer find the fault and repair it. Hope this helps.

Answer 3

I have known this a few times before but the problem is, a corgi engineer is solely trained on gas appliances, and if some thing goes wrong they only change whole parts. Normally boilers have a main panel which does the ignitor. The fact that the problem light is not on I will assume the exhaust fan kicks in. The problem i have seen a few time is that the main ignitor panel has dry solder joints which is very simple to solve and almost costless, in fact most of the electronic components on the panels are only a few pence. The problem is gas engineers are not electronic engineers..... and electronic engineers are not allowed to work on gas appliances...lol

Answer 4

it really is a combi-boiler, with a closed appropriate heating circuit (with stress vessel on the again) and a warmth exchanger to warmth warm water for the faucets. It has a fan-assisted flue, on the proper. somewhat corrosion on the pipe artwork isn't a large mission - a moderate leak will reason greeny-white crystals to boost close to a joint. The slicing-out is possibly the circuit board, or the water-water warmth exchanger for the faucets is furred up interior and causing the overheat protection to kick in. Does the appropriate heating artwork ok? What does the stress meter say? One Bar? If the stress rises to assert 3Bar, the stress vessel is shot. you could in good condition an exterior unit everywhere on the heating circuit, truly than replacing the interior one. call BG again, as circuit board is extreme priced, and replacing the small flat warmth exchanger is a tremendous pastime for you, as is the stress vessel artwork.

Answer 5

suggest you check if there is water in the system. see if there is a water pressure gauge. if there is let the water pressure go to about one and a half bar.