Gas line pressure testing.?

Question

Gas line pressure testing.?

Answer 1

Watch that pressure!!! These guys are getting a little crazy with the pressure. Don't pressurize it to more than a few pounds, or you're likely to create leaks that weren't there to start with, as well as blowing out the regulators on any combination valves you have. When I leak check a residential line, inside the house, I usually pump it up to about 15 or 20 ounces,....less than one pound pressure. This simulates only slightly more than the normal line pressure, and can actually show leaks quicker than the higher pressure. Overpressurizing can also cause the leak to blow right through the soap solution, not causing a reaction. (bubbles). Check all fittings, remembering to also check around the stems of any shut off valves. If you're somewhat handy, it shouldn't be too tough of a job. PLEASE...keep the pressure LOW!!!! Good luck.

Answer 2

Gas Line Pressure Test

Answer 3

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No leak is acceptable,the gas can migrate along a floor space or pipe/cable ducting and ignite when contacting any form of ignition .The flame then follows back to source with obvious results.You are correct to make sure the job is done properly,but it should only be done by an accredited gas fitter or it can invalidate your insurance,normally a CORGI GAS FITTER or local gas company fitter should check it and give you a pass certificate to cover yourself.

Answer 4

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RE:

Gas line pressure testing.?

The gas company sais that I have a major gas leak. They won't turn the gas back on until the problem is fixed. I know how to find a leak on a line that is already pressurized but the gas has been shut off. So what is the best way to pressurize a line for testing? I am guessing that I have to...

Answer 5

First and foremost if you have an older home, Your leaking gas may be a result of old appliance shut-off valves gone bad. Best option is to replace all appliance gas, shut- off valves with the newer yellow and red handled brass valves.

Once that has been accomplished you will need a; gas pressure test gauge, squirt bottle with soap, two pipe wrenches, a compressor and air nozzle and pipe thread sealant (I prefer Rector Seal). If the gas company did not disconnect you from the meter then you will need to do that and attach the gas pressure test gauge. In California, most civic authorities recommend pressurizing the gas line to 15 ft/lbs. If the gas line holds fifteen pounds for fifteen minutes with out any loss then your good to go.

However, if your gas line is not holding fifteen pounds for fifteen minutes then you will need to begin testing all connections, IE. couplings, tees and ells. If you have secondary line, or a branch line going underground to a pit or barbeque, disconnect that line from the main and test the house line again. Most gas line leaks are from old appliance shut-off valves and secondary/branched underground lines. Knowing that cuts your trouble shooting time down by half.

Answer 6

well, your rt with tat compressor ,also you need to cap all the out lets,like your stove ,dryer ,water heater then put on a air test 15 pounds gage, hold 15 pounds for 1 hour your good but if it drops u have a leek,find leek soup bottle squirt on the fitting,when it bubbles theres

your leek ,there u go...

Answer 7

You must disconnect appliances before the pressure test, they can not withstand that pressure.

They are designed to work at .5 LBS of pressure!

Answer 8

Install a shrader valve at any tapping that you can access. This is simply a tire valve that will thread into a pipe adapter. You will have to shut the valve at the meter and disconnect a tapping and connect the shrader valve using whatever adapters you need. Pressurize the line 3to5# should be enough and check all joints with soapy water. Look for bubbles.Of course you will need a certified pressure test to satisfy the gas company .

Answer 9

idk

Answer 10

First and very important, disconnect all appliances, heater, etc, before you pressure up.



Put a air gauge on the system. We start with a 15 lb gauge. We use a 100 lb gauge in hard to find the leak circumstances.

We usually do it at the meter riser.

Turn off all stops and disconnect all appliances and heaters and such that is on your system.

Depending on the size of your system, you may could pump it up with just a tire pump. I use a little 12v compressor that I have in the plumbing van.

Plug it into the cigarette lighter, run the cord through the window and connect it to the gauge.



Depending on how fast the gauge drops, start soaping the stops and exposed fittings. If it drops pretty fast, chances are the leak is in the yard line. If you find no leaks in the house, the next step is to disconnect the yard line from the house. Cap the yard line, pump it up and see if it holds.

If not, there you go. You have to replace the yard line unless it's fairly new and repairable.

If the yard line holds, then you have to move the gauge to the house and start concentrating on finding the leak in the attic or the walls.

In our area, if the gas company takes the meter, they require a city or county, state inspection before they bring the meter back. Here, the gauge has to hold 10 lbs for 15 minutes to pass inspection. The city, county or state usually requires a plumber or gasfitter to do the testing and permit pulling.



I use a spray bottle with dishwashing soap such as Joy, and water. Don't need much Joy.



To find small leaks, we go as high as 45 lbs of pressure to find them. But start out with 10lbs. Don't go higher unless you have to. And again, most areas require 10 to 15 lbs for inspection.



Edit: 4/6 Just reviewed the answers.

Again, most inspectors require 10-15lbs of gauge pressure. When we was allowed to use mercury gauges, it was 6 inches of mercury for 10 minutes in New Mexico. 10 inches of mercury for 10 minutes in most of Texas.



Now, if the gas company will let you have the meter back without an inspection, they are the ones you need to satisfy. Find and fix your leak, call the gas company and let them know. They may bring it back and do what is called a 'shut-in' test. If it passes, you keep your service. If not, they disconnect and take the meter, and might charge a 'call out' charge.



There is a small measure of truth in most the answers here. But not enough to be right.

I'm the only one here that does testing on gas systems for a living.