The wires were run individually, supported on small porcelain insulators, either knobs or cleats which held the wires off the surface. When they were run crossways of studs, joists, through floors, etc, holes were drilled and porcelain tubes inserted. Where the wires connected to a fixture, switch, etc there was usually no box, just a mounting board with holes in it which had lengths of protective tubing that the wires passed through and the switch or fixture was mounted to. The switches were usually round, with a white porcelain base, a nickel plated brass cover, mounted on the surface of the wall and you turned a knob to make the lights go on/off. Some of these switches even had a little window in the cover that indicated "on" & "off" presumably if the actual light was not visible from the switch, like maybe the switch was upstairs and the socket in the basement. Later they had the switches that recessed in the wall and had two round push buttons for on & off. The main fuse box for an average home might only consist of 2 or maybe 4 screw-in 15 amp fuses for the whole house. These fuses are the same type you can still buy. The thread for these fuses is the same as a light bulb thread. If you thought a circuit was shorted, you could remove the blown fuse and screw in a light bulb and, if it lit full brightness, there was a short. If it lit partly there was probably an over load on the line, like an electric heater, electric iron, & hot plate all on the same curcuit or something like that. At the time, it was mostly electric was lights, with the occasional fan, motor, electric heater, electric iron, hot plate, etc thats why there were not a lot of circuits. The bulbs were not white, they were clear glass and had a little nibbin on the end where the air was evacuated. They didn't figure out how to hide the place where the air was pulled out within the base of the bulb is until about 1927. They were still carbon filiments (with various treatments to the surface) the tungsten ones came out about 1913.