Refering to previous question on electric switches in living room, can i link them up togeather to one switch?

Question

First i would ask a electicain to do it, however i was just wondering if it was possible i.e. to walk into my preposed new build living room and switch on the sockets from a switch beside the light switch, then switch on the phone sockets from another switch, again beside light switch. to clarify to turn everything on when i go in to a room with ease, and turn everything off when i leave the room with ease. Also i thought the formate of light switch would be good because it would blend in with the other switches, ps. thanks for all the replys so quick .

Answer 1

This can be done but involves a bit of alteration to the existing sockets on the ring in the room in question. i.e. the sockets that you wish to control would have to be taken out of the ring main, which would have to be linked through again, The separated sockets would need to be fed as a fused spur from either - (A). A fused connection unit at the doorway, fed from the ring, (this will limit the current in the spur to 13 amps), or (B) fed from a separate 20amp MCB via a 20 amp DP switch at the doorway.



If your idea is to control all of your table lights at once, the normal way to do this is to fit 2amp 3pin sockets controlled from the doorway with a normal light switch. You cannot use 5 amp sockets as they are deemed to be carrying 5 amps and you can therefore only fit one per lighting circuit.



I dont know why you would want to turn off your phone sockets with a switch, it can be done easily enough, but there may be some regulation preventing it, depends if you have other sockets and who the wiring belongs to??!!



Best to speak to an electrician.

Answer 2

Not with a light-rated switch, no. You'll torch the place. A 30 AMP switch with 3mm isolation gaps is required. It'll look horendous on the wall. You can't just switch part of the ring main and say" i'll only be using a couple of lights". Any socketed ring main needs to be able to cope with 32 amps, including any switches.



The only way you can do this and stay within regs is off a switch fused down a spur down to 5 amp and then run a seperate spur to those sockets. This would then mean you can only really run low power things off it, such as lamps and the sockets would be different to the normal 32 amp sockets.. You couldn't use a hoover for example.



I think there should be a health warning when people say "yes sure its easy"...they don't have to live with it, nor clean up the mess when your life is in ruins.



Why not use remote socket controls. B&Q do a pack of 3 for £20. You plug them in and then have a remote control with 6 buttons. On/off for each of 3 sockets. That way things like table lamps, radios , fans etc can be radio controlled from the one unit.

Answer 3

It is fairly common to find 1 or 2 sockets wired to a single switch, usually in a living room, on the wall near the switch. These are usually referred to as "lamp sockets", because they are usually where someone would place a lamp, on either side of a couch or sofa.



I wouldnt put any more than that, on a single light switch tho, because you could be overloading the circuit.



It would be a good idea to label the outlets, and matching switches.



Call your phone service provider about a switch for the phone wiring.



Have Fun

Answer 4

Sorry I never saw your first question but I assume you are in the 'US'?

I wouldn't advise switching on all the sockets from one switch due to current loading as all plugged-in appliances will become live at the same time and the initial current draw may trip the circuit breaker.



Have you though about using remote control socket switches?

Answer 5

it will be danger-free by means of the undeniable fact that is designed to be double insulated. Dimmer switches comprise a potentiometer that controls an digital swap. they don't look only an undemanding variable resistor. They artwork by technique of switching the potential on and rancid so immediately that you won't be able to see the impression, in spite of the undeniable fact that it doesn't enable a common incandescent bulb to achieve its finished brightness earlier being grew to develop into off again - therefore it glows dimly. it is why you won't be able to use them with potential saving bulbs. those are small fluorescent lamps whch count on a smooth voltage and grant frequency. The potentiometer and the electronics are interior a closed plastic conceal and not in any respect some thing "stay" is authorized close to the metallic conceal plate. in case you study the element heavily you'll see you may ought to have fairly a lengthy length of uninsulated cord sticking out from the terminal submit earlier it ought to contact some thing appropriate to the front plate, the screws or the knob. providing that you safeguard the wires real of their terminals there'll be no danger. no matter if the knob is metallic it will be pressed onto a plastic spindle submit so there isn't any danger of electrocution that way. also, if the swap housing field is metallic and is earthed then the cover plate receives an earth by skill of the fixing screws. you're danger-free.

Answer 6

The only safe way to do this would be to run a wire from a lighting fuse in your fuse box ( an empty one ) to a switch in the living room, wire back from the switch to a large enough contactor mounted at your distribution board, connect the red and black accross the coil connections.

wire or rewire your new living room sockets on a dedicated circuit for them alone, these should then be connected to the outgoing side of the contactor, the incomming side of the contactor should be fed with a set of double insulated 6mm meter tails from a 32amp fuse / mcb. At the switch, join the two blacks together in a connector inside the switch box, break the two reds accross the switch, incomming live to common and outgoing red with a piece of black sleeving over it to identify a swtch wire to other terminal of the switch, ( remember to connect and sleeve all earths.) ps this will not do for phones )

Answer 7

getting an electrian to do is the safest. he has to be licensed, & he has to make your project comply with all the certification for national specs. anyway, if U do it yourself, U could get it going & then have an Electrician buddy look at it to ask his opinion. (that way he'll tell U the RIGHT way to do it, & not charge U for his opinion)



if U are in US, this must comply with US standards, if in UK, it must comply with UK standards. blah blah blah.



yes, U can have everything all in one room powered on the same circuit, BUT U have to make sure that the circuit involved can handle THAT load. (don't make all 3 electric clothes dryers in the same room turn on full blast all at the same time) U would also have to make sure the circuit breaker can handle that load. how are you power outlets arranged on your walls- U might have to cut thru the walls.



U can probably make the switch activate specific power outlets, & just plug in your operating light into those power outlets. i don't know the specifics on your lighting design so i can't advise U on specifics.



there are also some beginners books for electrian projects. but i don't have time to figure out all those.

Answer 8

You should refer to the Electrical Code Guidelines at a municipal government center or ask an building inspector.

Answer 9

Not an easy or cheap job to do because of all the different voltages each circuit would need to use.

Answer 10

its actually not that hard too do i am an electrician . its not hard if its not drywalled.if its drywalled well ill be blunt your screwed.if you need help wiring it and theres no drywall ill tell ya what to buy and how to do it email me at [e-mail] be glad to help

Answer 11

You need superswitch.

Answer 12

to avoid a fire or some nasty shocks, do not try what you have in mind.