Question:
Need help on buying a new gas furnace!?
saintbeowulf
2009-02-13 14:42:31 UTC
Well,my parents' home has an ancient gas furnace that is about 22 years give or take. It broke and it was a Carrier. So,the new gas furnace has to be a Carrier.

So far,we as in my dad and me contacted the original installer of our old furnace and a gas company.

The sq ft of our home is 1,854 sq ft minus the garage minus the basement,since there isn't going to be vents for heating and cooling in those rooms.

The guy from the original business told us that it is advisable for us to get a 80% efficient furnace and told us that the gas company is trying to get us to pay more with the 95% efficient. In addition,he told us that the ducts are too small and it will create static pressure. The financing that he told me is that 50% down and 6 months no interest.

The guy from the gas company didn't give me a recommendation,since I wanted the best efficient furnace which is 95% efficient. In addition,I told the guy from the original business that the guy from the gas company didn't mention about doing the duct work for about $7,000 USD and the gas company is trying to make more money off of you. The guy from the gas company just told us that they will be doing some sheet metals work for a few hundreds and install a new thermostat.

So,should I contact a different business or what? I need help.
Five answers:
Dave
2009-02-13 18:03:03 UTC
USA Go with the 95% efficient furnace. It will pay for itself in the long run, and save you more money on the heating bills than an 80% unit. I am not sure about your duct sizing.



The supply house where the furnace is bought usually does an analysis of your home for free. The analysis will tell you the correct size ( in btu ) to buy. They can also diagram the duct system - showing sizes - for the whole house.



Get WRITTEN AND SIGNED estimates from at least three contractors. If a proposal is not signed, it is not legal. Same as a contract. Go with the one that makes you feel the most comfortable, which is not always the cheapest, but usually the middle one.



The homeowner should pay for and obtain the permit. I have seen cases where the contractor pulls the permit, but walks off the job half way through (after being reimbursed for the cost of the permit) and cancels the permit.



Make sure the contractor is licensed in your municipality.
Comp-Elect
2009-02-13 14:52:22 UTC
Hello



I would say your original contractor is taking you for a ride. Find another contractor and do not mention any information given by other contractors.



Write out exactly what you want and present this to each contractor - get an estimate in writing and signed by the contractor - not you.



Here is a contractor selection guide:



==============================================



Selecting contractors:



1/ Look up local contractors first. work out from the closest

to your location. If someone you trust has had work done

similar to yours, ask them about the contractor they

used. If they were completely satisfied with their

contractor(s), ask for their telephone number.



2/ Select at least 5 your are interested



3/ Do a google/yahoo search on each of the contractors

you are interested in; look for praises (check who is

writing the praises to see if they have any connection to

the contractor
work in groups> google/yahoo search the people giving

the praise or references)



4/ When you are satisfied with at least 3 contractors per job,

have them give you written estimates with details of work

to be done, terms, guarantee(s), cost of extras (how

much do they charge if they find something not covered

by the contract), paymant schedules if necessary and

whatever else you can think of to protect yourself.



5/ If the contractor tries to pressure you into signing the

contract immediately with a high deposit (more than

15%) reject that contractor. Be careful, high pressure

can be someone who sounds very convincing, but has

many reasons why you should sign on the dotted line

NOW.



6/ It is always good to have another adult with you when a

contractor inspects the work to be done.



7/ If you do not get at least 3 written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet) , go back to 1. repeat until you get written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet).



Read the estimates over with some who has some knowledge of the work that has to be done.



This may take longer than you thought; do not rush into it. Research, resaerch research, helps.



When you are ready choose by being informed.



Good Luck
Len B
2009-02-13 20:30:28 UTC
AS A CONTRACTOR I RECOMMEND A TRANE, IF YOU GET A CARRIER INFINITY, EXPECT THAT TO HAVE INFINITY PROBLEMS AND THE COST OF REPAIR.S FOR THE AMOUNT OF MONEY YOU WILL SAVE IN A HIGHER EFFICIENT FURNACE(ANY BRAND) WILL EAT UP THE SAVINGS.

IF YOU WANT A HIGH EFFICIENT UNIT STAY WITH AROUND 92-93% AND NOT A CONDENSING FURNACE.

I RATHER RECOMMEND A AVERAGE 80-92% TRANE FURNACE WITH A VARIABLE SPEED BLOWER THERE YOU WILL SAVE MONEY TOO, IF YOU HAVE A/C. AND GET EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR MOTOR THEY CAN COST A BIT MORE THAN NORMAL

DONT MESS WITH DUCTING, UNLESS ITS BROKEN REPAIR OR SEAL IT.

DONT LET ANYONE TALK YOU INTO THESE HI COST UNITS WITH NEW DUCTING TO SAVE ON FINANCE. IT WILL TAKE YEARS BEFORE YOU EVER RECOVER COST OF NEW SUPER DUPER SYSTEM. WITH MANY HEAD ACHES. (SIMPLE IS BETTER) OUT HERE IN CALIFORNIA WE HAVE ZONES WHERE WE NEED TO INSTALL HIGH EFFICIENT EQUIPMENT OR SEAL DUCT AND DO DUCT TESTING.WITH NEW EQUIPMENT.



THE PROBLEM IS THEY MAKE IT TOO EXPENSIVE FOR PEOPLE TO REPLACE AN OLD UNIT THAT PEOPLE NOW THROW MONEY AWAY ON A OLD UN EFFICIENT UNIT. WHEN A NEW 80% IS STILL A BETTER EFFICIENT THAN THE ONE THEY HAVE TO REPAIR. (THATS LIBBIES IN GOVERNMENT FOR YA)
Bill S
2009-02-13 15:43:29 UTC
You do not have to replace a Carrier furnace with another Carrier furnace. There are other brands. Check them out.
Nancy
2015-12-01 06:57:45 UTC
yes


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